Download Building Cabinets, Bookcases & Shelves: 29 Step-by-Step by Popular Woodworking Editors PDF

By Popular Woodworking Editors

A spot for Everything...

Whether you wish garage for books, DVDs, video games or outfits, you'll locate beautiful, customized recommendations during this e-book. Open shelving? An enclosed cupboard? A vintage bookcase? They're all right here. Building Bookcases, cupboards and Shelves bargains 29 garage suggestions in numerous sizes and styles with either open and enclosed garage. each one venture comprises slicing lists, step by step directions and information and recommendation from expert woodworkers who've made every bit. better of all, you could construct them simply as they're, or customise additional to make every piece uniquely yours.

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The intermediate stiles and rail also have tenons on their ends. The door tenons all have a step in them to accommodate the rabbet for the door’s glass. The 1⁄4"-wide mortises are in line with the inside of the rabbet. At the upper portion of the bookcase door, the intermediate rail joins the two narrow stiles with a half-lap joint as shown top, near right. I made the joints for the outer stiles and rails, and then clamped the door together to lay out the joints for the intermediate stiles and rails.

Reassemble the case, then cut the eight tusks. Appropriately, the tusks should seat with their center at the shelf tenon. Fit the tusks as necessary, and tap them into place to make the whole case rigid. Now take it all apart one last time and sand everything to 150 grit. For a finish, I used a simple dark-colored gel stain, wiping off the excess until I was happy with the depth of the color. I then top-coated the case with a couple of coats of lacquer. The nicest thing about moving this bookcase is that after you knock out the eight tusks, everything fits in the trunk of a compact car.

A fence that is 18" to 24" long and about 3" high will work fine. You’ll need to determine which way to orient the sides on your saw depending on the way the arbor of your saw tilts. With some of the cuts, the majority of the side will be supported by the miter gauge, and you can use your rip fence to guide your cut. When the larger section of the side will be between the blade and rip fence, this is an unsafe cut. The board can twist and bind against the blade and cause a kick- back. Move the rip fence out of the way, mark the sides and make the next cuts with only the miter gauge fence.

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