By Ted Fuller
The artwork of Woodworking - complicated Routing
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Additional info for Advanced Routing (Art of Woodworking)
Most important, I never begin a turning sequence unless I’ve first reviewed it in my mind so that I can work out any problems before I start to work on the actual part. I’ve never been hurt on the lathe, but I have had a couple of near misses. One incident occurred maybe 40 years ago when I was turning a fat candlestand on my dad’s lathe. It wasn’t my very first time on the tool, but it was one of my first times. Nevertheless, I thought I knew what I was doing. I’d reviewed, but not read, the tool’s instruction book, and I considered myself to be pretty handy in the shop.
I then make an end-grain paring cut on the tenon’s shoulder to clean up any loose fibers. 4. Beads I use my 1/2" skew to create beads and half beads as shown in photos PHOTO 20 When the least diameter of the hollow is 5/8", I use a wide butt chisel bevel-side down to establish the entire length of the tenon. PHOTO 21 I finish up the tenon by cutting a slight bevel on the end to make it easier for the tenon to slide into its mortise without getting stuck. ) PHOTO 22 I randomly established some lines on this test spindle to mark locations and limits for a pair of half beads and a cove.
30 years ago, when I was first smitten with the desire to build chairs, I was astonished at the cost of lathes capable of taking more than 40" between centers. While I could buy a lathe at Sears for $220 that could be opened up to 36", the kind of lathes that could be opened an additional 10" were well over $1,000 at a time when $1,000 was quite a bit of money. At that point in my life, my wife and I simply couldn’t afford to spend $2000 on a tool that might never pay for itself, and for a while it looked as if my dream of making chairs was going to be pushed aside because we didn’t have the money a good lathe required.